Sunday, October 25, 2015

Chain Store Versus Local Artisan

When a person wants a piece of jewelry, say for an anniversary, for engagement, birthday... they usually think of the chain store in the mall that provides the sparkly diamonds in the brightly lit and neat and tidy store.  Some actually will hunt out the local jeweler that has his own storefront. Very few people seem to think of the person that works out of their home or small studio for the gifts or even their own jewelry purchases.

I'd like to explore the differences between the three different types of jewelry makers, to take a look at the varied types of work, their contributions to the jewelry industry, and to give some perspective to why each is a good choice from which to buy your jewelry.

I've been introduced to people over the years that make jewelry on different levels, some do simple beading, some extraordinary beadwork, some simple metal work, and some intricate metal creations, some that set stones and then those that have the extraordinary jewel encrusted work... and what I find is that they are all creative, in their own right.  They are all creative and love what they are doing. I've met people that are simply gifted with working with metals and gems, and that is what we think of when we buy a ring for engagement, and sometimes, that person isn't at a large store like Zales, or Bulgari or Jared, or Brian Gavin... they don't want to work for a large store. They produce their wares in either their home, or in their own studio, possibly sharing studio time with other artists... but they don't quite 'fit' what we think of as a "Jewelry sore".

There is the independent spirit that wants to create and work for themselves, people like Joe Silva, who owned his own jewelry store for many, many years, an actual storefront, that was quiet, dignified, and carried work that was extraordinary, not run of the mill chain store work.

Mr Silva made pieces that were unique and what he loved. He did a lot of casting, a lot of nice stonework, and even Rosaries. Sadly, he has passed away, or I would introduce you to him. But I have to say, He inspired me a lot. His eye for what was aesthetically pleasing brought in customers from all over the country. He inspired other jewelers and artists as well.

In the jewelry business there are artists like Scott Schreiber, who do only commissioned work are simply extraordinary. I spoke with Scott about his work, he says that he has made a living from working on his own, after apprenticing for years at a local jewelers, his independence allowed him to venture into business for himself. He has made a living creating unique designs for each customer, not cookie cutter pieces. His eye for detail is extraordinary, he captures the majesty of each stone when he sets them, and he creates the settings for each stone that mimic that majesty.  His work will stand the test of time, being timeless itself, not just the passing fad, and will be a testament to his talent.

Artists are found all over the place. Jewelers that are classically trained, those that apprentice at the feet of other jewelers, and those that are taught in classrooms, working under the tutelage of  jewelers that have the knack for teaching. There are those people out there that are self taught, who bring a freshness to the art. They might think out of the box, so to speak. Someone like Richard Salley, who is pushing the boundaries, making jewelry that speak to the generation. He has that flair for the whimsical, the eye for what makes your mind think about the piece, not just admiringly, but to evoke memories and sometimes to make you chuckle.

When a person goes to an individual to buy a piece of jewelry, say an engagement ring, they find that they are entering into a world of technical and emotional jewelry. Technical, since it will be exact, the mathematically correct, exact workmanship, but... also into the emotional side of the piece. It is a choice that will last the life of the marriage, so it needs to remind the person wearing it, as well as the person giving it, of the overwhelming feeling of love... and that is what an independent jeweler can do,
Making a ring that is perfect for the person receiving it is their specialty.  Telling them about what you want, what you feel, what you envision, what the person receiving the piece is like, what they enjoy, what they love... all those factors can go into making the ring... It will be a piece that no one else shares.

This is not to say that the larger stores, the chain jewelry stores should not be considered. Working in tandem with a jeweler is not for everyone. There are some people that do not want to take the time to delve into their emotions... and that isn't a bad thing. There are people that just don't do 'that'.  A company like Brian Gavin Diamonds would be right for that person. They have stunning work, each piece is hand crafted, and their workmanship is precise and exquisite.  The woman receiving a ring from her suitor from the company would be overwhelmed just as much as with a custom made ring from an independent jeweler.

 It isn't a contest, but.... I tend to lean heavily toward the independent jeweler...

Or could you tell?

Whichever one chooses, the sentiment is behind the jewelry. Nothing says "I love you" quite like a diamond, and nothing says that better than on a ring that symbolizes eternity, faithfulness, loyalty, and commitment. 

Please stop by a local independent jeweler in your area to see what beauties they have. There are some wonderful artists that are  to be discovered.






Saturday, October 24, 2015

Cristina Hurley Jewelry

amethyst stone, opal, blue topaz and tanzanite
Cristina Hurley
Sometimes you stumble across a person, not literally, but you happen on to them in the most wonderful ways, and find that they are charming as well as talented. That is Cristina Pabon Hurley. I met her through the internet, and have been taken in not only by her talent as a jewelry artist, but because she is such a down to earth person , that also  has this wonderful gift of designing and manufacturing jewelry. 

Many of the pieces of jewelry that I have seen, made by Cristina, have been very elegant, very timeless designs. Most can be worn with anything, and are very well made. She makes it look easy to set stones, so much so that she has tutorial videos that are popular. This ring set is one example of the elegant work that she does. The custom work that Cristina does includes pieces like the one above, it is a pendant that can be rearranged. The pieces come apart and can be re-stacked in a different order. What a clever idea!


Amethyst and Sterling Earrings-Cristine Hurley


Cristina was born in Puerto Rico and went to school there, when she graduated from High School, she took a summer course in jewelry and fell in love with it. She apprenticed with the teacher, metalsmith, Jeannette Fossas, for two years and was then accepted into the Rhode Island School of Design in Providence. This is where she completed her Bachelors of Fine Arts in Jewelry in 1996.Since that time, she has worked as a bench jeweler for a large boutique in New York City, as well as her own jewelry shop in Canton, Massachusetts.
 Cristina says she had some wonderful teachers like, Louis Mueller, Martina Windels, Robin Quigley, Sondra Sherman, Noam Slshayiv, and Klaus Burgel, but she says that now she usually teaches herself new techniques. She also teaches private lessons at her home studio, that people learn of her by word of mouth or by the inernet. 

Working almost exclusively in Sterling Silver, Christina says she also likes the,higher Karat range of gold to work in, that lower Karats and white gold can be hard to work with. Cristina also prefers working with diamonds and Cubic Zircon, which is   the cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide (ZrO2). 

I am enamored with this pendant and the process that goes into making it. What a lovely piece of jewelry! It catches the light through the cubic zirconias and makes a rainbow of color. This is the pendant in the Mumtaz Series. It is a sterling silver, hand fabricated box, filled with over 1200 CZs, and a sterling silver handmade chain with an original Fabricated Toggle clasp. One of a kind, made in  2014 by Cristina Hurley Jewelry Design. The details on side are engraved into the silver by hand, the box is sealed and the spaces are covered with clear glass on both sides...what a wonderful piece of jewelry!

Ms Hurley's work is mainly targeted to women but she does have a line of Kenpo jewelry that men also like. The line includes earrings, cufflinks, keychains and pendants. The work is timeless and as with the Universal Pattern... it has universal   appeal. 
Her Kenpo designs come from her own journey in this martial art. She read the book, Infinite Insights Vol. 4 by Ed Parker Sr. and after reading the chapter on Universal Pattern, this line was born. 

Deconstructed Pyramid pendant-Cristina Hurley
I  found the pyramid constructions that Cristina makes are very fascinating, some of the pendants are four pointed stars, which is basically a pyramid base with the four walls laid flat... or the  four points of the star. She has translated this shape into various designs, like this necklace that is that basic shape that has been modified a bit, but you can see the basic four pointed shape. I like this design, and when you understand what was behind the design, it makes sense... and gives you a new perspective on the piece. 


Cristina's  work can be found in Galleries, at trade shows and online. Please check out her beautiful creations here and here to see what I mean about them being great! Here is a list of her pages and social media. 



             Cristina Hurley Jewelry:
            http://www.cphurley.etsy.com
Phone: 917-825-4869
Email: cristinahurley@hotmail.com
               
 

Thanks for visiting today, please come back tomorrow for a look at Scott Schreiber Jewelry Design

Friday, October 23, 2015

In Between


I've been posting about beads, workrooms, techniques, and general glass stuff, and why people wear jewelry, along with some of the people that actually make jewelry. I wanted to stop here and briefly say thank you to all of the people that have helped me thus far.

It is no small feat for me to show so many beautiful pieces of jewelry, and some of the beads that are so fondly used... and in the upcoming week, the gemstones and more gorgeous work... This series has taken a lot of work. Mostly by other people. I simply asked and was rewarded by the wonderful artists with pictures and answers to my, sometimes innocently childish, questions.

So far, I have been blessed with having so many wonderful friends that have answered the call for help. Artists that work daily making wonderful jewelry, or beads. They are not only artists, they are wonderful, sharing and caring people. I could not have made it this far in the 31 Days challenge without the help of each and every one of the people that I have featured, and will feature.

I want to say thank you! and I look forward to the last nine days of this challenge. They  will be exciting, since I have a couple more people to feature. Please join me for the rest of the series. Please also, click on each of the links below, to see more of the artists works, give them a shout out!


Al MartinezRichard Salley

Lorena Angulo
Lea AvrochGinger Davis Allman




Thursday, October 22, 2015

More Workroom

When mentioning tools of the trade, I only hit on hammers (no pun intended), pliers, bench pins, bench blocks... and a few others. I didn't get into the actual heavy pieces of equipment that are a staple in a good workroom.

I own some nice pieces of equipment, though they are not always intended for jewelry making. I have an anvil that is pretty generic. Actually, several anvils of different sizes. I employ a trailer hitch for shaping, I have a rolling mill, soldering equipment... welding unit...

The tools that you use depend on what you are wanting to make. It is totally unnecessary to have a rolling mill unless you want to roll your own metals, or use it to make impressions in said metal...or if you want to draw your own wire. It is really not even necessary to have a mill for drawing wire. For millennia, wire has been drawn manually, so having a rolling mill is a treat. I'm adding this video on filigree work, because it shows the method of melting silver to make wire, using techniques that have been around since metalwork has been around. melting, pouring drawing the wire... this is how I learned to make wire. The method is similar to make ingots to roll in a mill for sheet. 

Soldering equipment is a must have for the well equipped workroom, though. One can make cold connections, and never use heat to work, but eventually, it is going to come into need. If not an actual soldering unit, then a means to anneal your metal.
I have to admit, when I am out of gas, I have a kiln that I use to anneal... I know, I know...

Annealing is a necessity. Metal is made up of molecules that, when worked with a hammer or by any means of vibrations... the molecules line up in a manner that makes the metal hard. Once hard, the metal will, if worked more, begin to crack. Once annealed, the molecules of the metal relax and the piece  may be worked again.  The process needs to be repeated at regular intervals to keep the metal pliable.

So, if you stamp metal to get a design, or roll the metal to get a design, the metal starts to harden. Wire, sheet... it doesn't matter. If stressed past the point of malleability, the metal will begin to have stress cracks, if not break into pieces.

Soldering is a method of using heat to join two pieces of metal together.
This is a nice video from Brian Gavin Diamonds, showing the process of soldering.

This method of joining takes time to perfect. Too large of a flame, the metal can melt, too little and the pieces will not join well, if you don't clean the metal before hand or don't use some type of flux, the pieces will not have a good join and the failure of that joint is eminent.

I wanted to learn how to weld because I wanted to make metal sculptures. I had tried to perfect the method of joining tin together using solder, which can be a tricky process, but my brother was an electrician and gave me the tips to be able to achieve some success with the steps to the process. But I wanted to learn more. I love brass, and thought having the knowledge to join brass together to make a sculpture would be wonderful... but how about steel? That would be even better...

And that is how I got into making jewelry.

Yes, it is a round about way.

I found that working with metal, especially cutting out metal, left some pretty cool pieces leftover. And I cut out a dragon to place onto another piece of metal, and the thought occurred to me...shrunk down, that would make an awesome pendant!

And the rest is not quite history, but what is continually being worked on!

A special thanks goes out to Brian Gavin Diamonds, they will be featured in the series on October 26th and 27th.

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Chemistry- Modern materials in Jewelry



Chemistry, Modern Materials in Jewelry



Once, most jewelry was made with natural objects. Metal, glass, stone, seed, bone, quill, all played a part in beautiful objects of adornment. Man (and woman) fashioned what they had on hand into something that would be wonderful to wear, maybe not exactly comfortable, but beautiful nonetheless.

Glass, when chemicals or oxides are added, changes color. Adding  1 part of nickel oxide in 50,000 produces a tint that may range from yellow to purple, depending on the base glass. One part of cobalt oxide in 10,000 gives an intense blue. Red glasses are made with gold, copper, or selenium oxides. Other colors can be produced in glass with other chemicals.(1)

Carved Bakelite bracelet
When the industrial revolution came along, new materials were being manufactured, explored, and made into some lovely items. In 1850, Alexander Parkes, a metallurgist and inventor, from Birmingham, England, discovered a clear, nitrocellulose and camphor combinations that resulted in a flexible material that he named Parkesine.  He continually refined his invention and created several household items for the London International Exhibition held in London in 1862. Parkes successor Daniel Spill took over the Parkesine and tried to promote Xylonite plastic, but It was not commercially a success. (2)

John Wesley Hyatt created a plastic compound he called Celluloid. It was more practical for larger and more durable objects and for the film industry, but, the substance was highly flammable, so it was relegated to the use in film only. Then came Leo Baekeland, a Belgium born American chemist, who created Velox photo paper, in 1893, as well as his 1907 invention of the synthetic plastic he called Bakelite.  The Bakelite was made from a mixture of phenol and formaldehyde and was easily mouldable; it also retained shape after being heated. This formula was instrumental in bringing the production costs of plastic down as well as having implications in other areas… such as radios, telephones, insulators, and jewelry!




 When the patent for bakelite expired in 1927, the Catalin Corporation bought the patent rights, After that point, most Bakelite products were sold by them.  In the 1930s and ‘40s, Catalin Corporation produced jewelry in abundance.

 Plastics, resins, and vinyl were developed for much more utilitarian purposes, but give a designer any material and they will give you something of beauty. In 1937, Du Pont, the leader in plastics, created Lucite, which was manufactured in large array of colors as well as transparent and opaque. During the early40s and 50s,  it was produced widely for jewelry use, it could be embedded with rhinestones, shells, and other materials, which broadened the design possibilities. The “moonstone” lucite was very popular into the 1960s, having a quality of looking like it is glowing from within, and was made in an assortment of colors. 
Catalin Necklace, Early 1960s






Polyvinyl chloride was discovered by Eugen Baumann, a German Chemist, in 1872.(4)  was patented in a us grant by Shriram Bagrodia, Louis Thomas Germinario, John Wlker Gilmer, Tie Lan and Vasiliki Psihogios under the assignation of the University of South Carolina Research Foundation. It is directed to a polymer clay nanocomposite material comprising a melt-processible matrix polymer and a layered clay material having decreased levels of extractable material, such as extractable salts of organic cations.   

In 1926, B.F. Goodrich Companies Waldo Semon, developed a way to plasticise pvc, which made it more flexible and a marketable substance. When PVC contains a liquid plasticizer, it is called a “plastisol”.

Polymer clay was formulated by means of adding a liquid plasticizer to the PVC formula, and sometimes it is called a ‘plastigel’ because of the rheological properties (5) This ‘flow’ property is what makes it so wonderful as a ‘clay’ . It was formulated as a possible replacement for Bakelite plastic and though it had no actual ‘clay’ in the formulation, it was a  mouldable substance that, since it was a plastigel, held it’s shape when heated.  the formulation was sold to Eberhardt Faber of the STAEDTLER Mars GmbH & Co. KGin  … who later marketed it as Fimo ‘clay’. 

The name came from the daughter of a German dollmaker Kathe Kruse, after she had been given the polymer clay to play with. Her name was Sophia, but was known by her family as “fifi” and hence, the name Fimo… from Fifi’s modeling clay. 
Rustic Beads- Ginger Davis Allman


Polymer clay has been used successfully in making jewelry components as well as complete jewelry. There is a wide variety of colors and textural variations, Special-effect colors and composites include translucent, fluorescent, phosphorescent, and faux "pearls," "metallics," and "stone." It is possible to make patterns in the clay itself using different colors, as well as adding powders, and micas, inks and stones.
Polymer clay- faux Roman Glass-faux Biwa Pearls - Ginger Davis Allman


Resin jewelry components- Marie Covert
Resins are very popular in jewelry today, home formulas are very popular with cosmetic jewelry makers. The two part thick liquid resin made up of the polyurethane resin and a catalyst that hardens the resin.  The result is a clear, hard, resin.  If poured into a mould when mixed, it will harden into that shape and can be incorporated into jewelry pieces, or it can be poured right into a bezel, or, as some do, can be poured into a cylindrical mould and when hardened and turned out, can be sliced into disks, drilled through and used for rings or connecting components.

Resin "glass" earrings - Marie Covert

Vintage Resin Buton, used in a cuff bracelet design-Marie Covert























































[1] Steve W. Martin, Ph.D, Glass Facts, The Composition of Glass, "Glass," Discovery Channel School, original content provided by World Book Online, http://www.discoveryschool.com/homeworkhelp/
worldbook/atozscience/g/225740.html
, August 2001.

[2]  Who Invented Plastic?   http://www.historyofplastic.com/

[3]  Greenland, D. J. "Adsorption of polyvinyl alcohols by montmorillonite." Journal of Colloid Science 18, no. 7 (1963): 647-664.

[4]   Baumann, E. (1872) "Ueber einige Vinylverbindungen" (On some vinyl compounds), Annalen der Chemie und Pharmacie, 163 : 308-322.

[5]  Sarvetnick HA. (1972). Plastisols and organosols. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold